Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Spat out and a tast of whiskey

Land folk will never understand what mariners do to prepare for ocean passages, you need to be slowly initiated into the drills, checks and procedures to cross oceans and travel to foreign countries by sea.
And even then after years of experience there is always the two big sighs, Thank God the work is done, and Thank God we have departed.
Picking the right weather wind to depart for a sailing boat has its challenges, unlike a yacht race which has a set time and day, we get the flexibility to choose, and that isn't necessarily a good thing, because human nature is that we are always looking for a weather window that is better than what we are looking at and seeing, and you could sit in port for months just waiting for the "perfect"New Zealand and Nelson were an interesting stop for Xplore, we had some long days in preparation, and a tough nut to crack with an issue with our battery banks which had seemed to take a turn for the worse on the crossing from Tasmania.Harbor master Dave Duncan, and local sailing heroine AKA "Pirate Pearl" were the cream of the cake, and who shine as true Kiwi's, and Chuck the marine sparky came to the rescue at the death knock when they other incompetent knuckle heads were still sitting around scratching their asses was a gem.For me as skipper port stops are always tiring, too much to arrange in a strange place and never enough hours in the day, but the help and work by the crew went superbly, Wayne, Alexis and Norman slogged away at their parts of the work list and we departed on time.One departure that we all didn't like to see happen though was from Wayne, the gutsy, tenacious, resourceful and forever calm and patient little red head had his heart strings pulled just a little too far from his girl friend back there in Tasmania, which just goes to show that love can be bigger than the whole South Pacific ocean, we all on board will miss him greatly.We departed New Zealand at first light on the 29th of February and weaved our way through the myriad of island chains that link the south island to the Cook Straits, that then lead us to the door way of the South Pacific, the forecast gave us calm but fast sailing in the first day with a daily run of 207 nautical miles being deemed "very respectable" by all on board.One of the crew though didn't secure one of his personal bottles of whiskey very well, and as soon as we were stonking along in a fresh northerly down Cook Straits, his bottle of plonk and his box of bits came flying from his cabin and were smashed to pieces, whiskey in the bilges isnt the nicest smell, so he spent the afternoon cleaning, normally a token of whiskey is poured into the sea as a request to Neptune for safe travels, this time the dram of whiskey first had to clean the bilges !Stronger winds are now still taking us east fast, but a lump sea state and a substantial low pressure cell hot on our heals makes for careful nervousness. Stephen








Saturday, February 18, 2012

The answer my friend

Is always blowing in the wind.

A time to come and a time to go, leaving the shores of Tasmania was a hard
thing to do, but needed.
Seven months of hard work, physically and mentally had taken its toll, and
the price isn't worth the pain.

The winds of the Tasman Sea have blown a fair and stiff breeze to give the
small team on board Xplore a brisk speed on our eastwards way for a brief
stop in New Zealand before heading further east and a total of 5,000
nautical miles to the French Gambier islands.

Xplore's deck have different faces to smile at her, the crew is new, but
with experience, she has carried them safely so far, and they are starting
to learn her wishes, time and miles will tell how deep the relationships
goes, but I have a mixed melancholy feeling of days and miles gone by, and
of the times, places and people that we have enjoyed and shared.

My thanks go to my forever supportive dear friends who have been there for
me and the dreams of voyages and adventure, in Tasmania, Australia and all
around the world, I thank you all for your encouragement and support, it
means far more to me than you may think.

Stephen

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Blokes on Boats

AJ, GJ, PJ and SJ what a mixtured team !

Nothing could be better than a summer cruise back up the Tasmanian coast
with a buch of blokes who just love the water.

AJ is Andrew John, GJ is Gary John, PJ is Peter John and Skipper Stephen
John, I dont think I have ever had a crew who have all been "J ed" in their
middle name, but here we are.

Summer in Tasmania has been summer, warm long days where dawn starts at
4.30am and doesnt get dark untill 10pm, day time temperatures in the high
20's and low 30's ensures a toasty tan to those working out side or on
boats.

Xplore layed up for winter, but then slowly emerged for sailing with the
Launceston to Hobart yacht race, a small team of good friends joined forces
for an enjoyable and not too serious race down to Hobart, we even startled
the fleet with showing great turns of speed, not bad for a 38 ton ocean
sailer !

But this evening we are smootly slipping up the Tasmanian coast, just 4
happy sailing blokes and a smooth sea.

Hobart showed us a great welcome with four key Australian races all arriving
in time for new years eve and a spectacular fire works display. A great
festive enviroment with the best of Tasmanian foods, wines and entertainment
along the docks.

The new year in colourful flair also meant it was time to work again, on the
boat that is, and Xplore was slung in her hips and dried out on shore for
her bi-annual scrub a dub dub.

New cutlass bearings, propellor shaft checked, sonar changed and checked,
and of course a new years bottom paint job, clean as a whistle and ready to
roll the ocean waves.

Its been a busy time in Tasmania for me, not the easiest times for a sailing
chap, land issues can really take it out of a sailor, but some things need
to be done.

Dawn came yesterday with a favorable forecast to depart the southern coast
and to head north, fresh winds, a new No 2 yankee and a slippery bottom
meant we have enjoyed amazing pace around the coast, 10's and 11's all day,
with even the auto pilot winning the fastest with top speed of 12.9 knots.

We expect to arrive back to Beauty Point in the Tamar river some time late
tomorrow, with these fair winds and some luck from above, may the voyage
home continus so blissful.

Stephen

Friday, July 1, 2011

Morning has broken

There are times in ones life that you will always remember, good ones, sad ones and bad ones.

But today, the dawn light is just creeping over the eastern horizon as we pass Ninth Island close on the northern coast of Tasmania, the seas are flat, the winds are calm, the stars are still shining brightly as they have all night showing us the final way home to my country and home.

We all could not have had a more enjoyable and relaxing "Second Half" to the crossing from New Zealand, the first 675 nautical miles were a tad on the demanding side and a reminder of what heavy weather sailing is all about.

The second half has been a joy, the type of ocean travel that you dream about, and which reminds us why we come out into the seas to visit distant lands, over come adversities and test ourselves, just for these delicious magical moments.

We have 26 nautical miles to travel until we enter the river system of the Tamar, this leads to Launceston, but more importantly to Beauty Point, my loved home and place where I have some of my best friends.

We left Punta Arenas in Chile on the 16th of April and we arrive here on the 2nd of July, just over 9,200 nautical miles, and once again in true Xplore style these miles have been filled with adventure and challenges.

As Skipper I have tried to always write about where we have been going, whats been happening so that readers of these blogs can briefly transport themselves into our very different world in the extreme and remote parts of the world that can only be visited by sea.

My greatest thanks though, and thanks that can never be said enough goes to my crew, Audrey first mate, Julie and all the other fine people who have helped me sail Xplore in such a professional manner which has safely delivered everyone to their dreams and back again.

This winter Xplore will remain in Tasmania for a well earnt break and some normal maintenance, and after that only god knows ?

Stephen Wilkins A proud skipper, and a happy Australian

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Great Balls of Fire

Sailing into electrical storms at night is something that land lubbers will never understand, and quite understandably, and you would have to ask the question of reason and sanity about why silly old sailors would do such a thing ?

Wellllllll, you see there are weather systems that you want to be on the right side of and there's the other side that just isn't going in the right direction, so you have to pick one or the other, sounds quite simple.

So last night we picked the right side of the system, but there is a down side to that, lightning, thunder, very strong gusty winds and heavy rain ! hmm you ask, doesn't sound very smart at all.

Every weather system is fed by external and upper atmosphere air masses which have different characteristics, and some times these don't mix that well or get along nicely, a bit like putting some guys from the Hells Angels in with a bunch of gay ballet dancers, you just know that there is going to be a fight.

The fight didn't last that long, and I am not sure who won, but it was spectacular. There we were sailing along and I was watching the winds start to creep back from the North, I just said to Jane that we would put the last (4th) reef in as it was feeling more unsettled and there was another, even darker cloud mass coming, and as we went to do this, ga boom !

Within seconds the winds went from mid 20's into the 30's and then 40's, we banged on the auto pilot buttons for 50 degrees course change as I ran back to the helm to tak it manually, Jane was dumping the main sheet and the winds peaked, and the torrential rain came bucketing down, we had to get off the wind to ease the pressure.

All hands on deck, as Audrey felt the sudden change from her bunk, tearing away down wind the girls fought with the main and brought it down and under control.

The lightening bolts and thunderous booms from the electrical storm directly above us was incredible, it was all happening very fast and there wasn't even a moment to shut the computer systems down, to do up your jacket or to even consider whether we would be hit by the lightening.

The crack of the whip noises, and the great balls of fire as the white fists from heaven came sparkling down left everyone awe struck and totally sodden with rain and perspiration, job done, boat fine, everyone safe.

Postion 37 03 S 167 42 E speed 7.2 knots course 242 true 1003nm to the Tamar River and Tasmania

Monday, June 20, 2011

Bug City

Your skin crawls with tingling shudders. You scratch so hard that the pain is nearly enjoyable. The nights are so long because sleep never comes, only the insects that silently drill holes into your skin. In day light the horror of the nights animal feasting becomes apparent. The lumps, welds and scars cover any, and every part of your body. Tucking into bed is no longer a pleasure, just the start of yet another execution session.

New Zealand, and its stunning Bay of Islands is a delightful place. One of the most important part of that delight is the incredibly warm, friendly and helpful people.

We have now spent a week in the harbor town of Opua, and the weather gods have tugged at our mooring lines stronger today, just to remind us of our plan and dream to finally sail Xplore into Beauty Point there in Tasmania for winter.

We leave the Bay of Islands and Bug City with smooth seas and a sunny sky, still scratching from the onslaught from the sand flies that they call "Midges"

Stephen

Monday, June 13, 2011

Thered be sheep in them hills

The feelings of making land fall to any sailor are always very strong, the longer the voyage the stronger the feelings.

We left Punta Arenas Chile on the 16th of April and we are now just about to enter the port of Opua in the Bay of Islands New Zealand, it will be the 14th of June, a smidge under two months and 7,500 nautrical miles later.

The land of the Long White Cloud (New Zealand) is also reknowned for their sheep, millions of them, more sheep than the total population !

Many of the Xplore team have been to these shores before, but for each and everyone of us this marks end of the Pacific crossing. Many of the team will continue through to Tasmania, but some will depart here in New Zealand.

For most people the thought of traveling such as distance by sea is far too daunting, and the thought of being together on one relatively small boat with 8 people is inconceivable. But those who have sailed long ocean miles will always tell you that the days slip by much faster than you think, and that there is always something to do, to look at and to think about.

More news to come as we wash the salt from our clothes, put on some street gear and taste the foods and beverages of the Long White Cloud.

Stephen