Xplore departs So Georgia Island: 29 Nov. 2008

We have left South Georgia this morning at first light (3am) and had one hell of a windy day, with toooo much ice around. We were hoping to be able to depart along the southern coast as the forecast favored it, but on rounding Cape Disappointment, we were sorely 'disappointed' - large seas were tearing small bergs and growlers from the huge tabular "floating ice islands" that are grounded along the SE corner of the island's continental shelf; making it impossible to get sail on and the boat off a safe course without constantly dodging ice with in the wave crests. We turned back around. In passing our anchorage that we had left four hours before, we faced a slow slog up the northeastern coast. The winds came, they went; they changed, and then increased ... mid-afternoon saw us with winds above 50 knots, four reefs, partially furled Yankee and staysail ... We plodded on. As the day dragged on and our energy started to wane, the winds slowly eased, but just as the relief of easy sea started to appear, the night and ice crept upon us. At 2245 I was awaken by Audrey and Allan, as they had a large berg 2.4nm close by on radar, with low cloud surrounding us. I checked our course and speed but also saw that the ice berg was large (1.2nm in size) and 5 degrees off our desired course, and we didn't have any light to safely skirt it. So stop, we had to: the growlers and small ice that floats down to leeward often can't be seen on radar. Frustrating as it is, it does allow everyone and every thing on board to regather some strength and the senses of humor for hopefully a better, more productive day of sailing tomorrow. The slow progress today just now means we are chasing a tight deadline for the two boys' flights in Stanley. ~ Stephen

Xplore in So Georgia Island: 28 Nov 2008

For many travelers the anticipation and the journey are the highlights, whilst the destination fails to meet their expectations. Happily I have not been disappointed by South Georgia. Rusting whaling stations, and the declining albatross population bear testament to the past and present industrialised harvesting of the natural world. However, the remaining flora and fauna have prospered in this truly wild place, and provide the snapshot of how the world once was that I had hoped for. We leave in the morning and I know I will miss this tiny island ~ Allan Stott onboard S/V Xplore 28 Nov '08

Xplore in So Georgia Island: 26 Nov 2008

It was an early start for some of our party this morning - 3:00 rise for a sunset viewing and a hot drink. We rose again at a more humane hour and were quickly motored to shore in twos as the choir of almost every animal under the South Georgian sun welcomed us in at the river mouth, in the far right corner of the bay. A waterfall of ice followed by an explosion tumbled from the hanging glacier. 'I won't be climbing that cliff face then, hey Stephen?' 'I certainly hope not.' It's the only harbour that has almost everything you'd want out of South Georgia: two species of penguins, two species of seals, and soaring Giant Petrels and Light Mantled Sooty Albatrosses; and in such masses that you cannot hide in the tussac without being surprised or surprising them. We hiked the whole amphitheater around the mountain's edge, to the glacier pond, and back along the coal-black beach. Penguins surfed the waves in and plodded along gracefully as they fumbled along smooth pebbles and rocks. Male elephant seals bashed nostrils in the tussac, like two large thumbs in a thumb war. Gentoos revealed their newborns and served up fish meals as chirping calls beckoned. The tussac made for a great maize as Audrey and I hiked, and as we summited a ridge, we were speechless - with smiles as our form of communication. "We were replete," was what we were saying! The story doesn't end there: the evening became gentle and warm, as the wind dropped to nothing and the sun set behind the hanging glacier. We clinked glasses full of punch and watched the numerous icebergs, tussac hills, and snow capped mountains turn shades of yellow, orange and finally pink. To fill us further we finished off more of Barbara (the sheep) as chops for supper and here I sit, productively exhausted, ready for another glass of white wine. ~ Maria, crew member Xplore

Xplore in So Georgia Island: 24 Nov 2008 #2

A surreal day at St Andrews Bay We were up and at 'em early this morn, heading for the famous Saint Andrews Bay!! We wound our way through some bergs and into a large bay with three huge glaciers feeding into it. From a distance you could see the elephant seals and penguins on the beach. We were soon anchored and readying the zodiac for a ride in. We surfed in on the rollers and unloaded quickly before the Capt. got swamped and headed towards the promised land. A large glacier-fed river stood between us and the main penguin rookery, and we tried unsuccessfully to find an easy way across. So Allan decided he wasn't going to be stopped and charged into the ice cold river, and through waist deep freezing water. I couldn't let him go alone so I followed on his heels, and our wellies were filled completely. But off we went, down a beach that was crowded with hundreds of leviathans (elephant seals) all grunting and bellowing our arrival. We crested a hill, and spread out for a kilometer in all directions were hundreds of thousands, yes hundreds of thousands of penguins . Baby brown fur balls and thousands of their King penguin parents. The sounds and smells were of another world. Yikes! It was a fantastic sight that will definitely be replayed in memories for many years to come, I'm sure. Spread out through them were hundreds and hundreds of elephant seals of all sizes: from the giant males to the doe-eyed babies. Coming back was equally challenging in the surf, and Allan and I were soaked through and through and frozen to the core - but you could not wipe the grins from our faces. We are sitting now on our yacht Xplore, anchored tightly in the bay. Katabatic winds are sweeping down off the glacier - 30 to 40 knots - and our sturdy yacht heels and keeps coming round. It is warm and cozy inside with delicious smells on the way up from the galley and much chatter on the day. Another unbelievable day in an unbelievable place, South Georgia!!! ~ John ( Standy Uppy) Wilson P.S . Go Stamps go, the new CFL Grey Cup Champs!

Xplore in So Georgia Island: 24 Nov 2008

Tucked up in bed South Georgia is such a nice place: calm, blue seas, tranquil anchorages, warm days and starry nights . . . . . . . . . well maybe in another 50 years ! Xplore stayed yesterday in the protected anchorage at Cobblers Cove. Forecast was for a small but brutal blow during the night bringing gale force winds from the north-northwest. With good holding we tucked into warm beds after a great meal cooked by Kris, and an informative presentation about wildlife protection and how fisheries are working with the World Wildlife Fund on protecting bird species, which was made by crew member Maria from her experience in South Africa. Sleeping with one eye open, and a feel for the boat, we rocked and swayed at anchor as the winds increased and the barometer dropped. At 3am, and the first signs of light, I checked on deck and looked at the most current satellite images on how long this was going to blow. Despite a gnawing clang each time the boat yawed in the bay, we held like glue to the shores of South Georgia. Hmmm, I thought, time to go back to bed until the weather swings and eases. All going well - we will leave to head for the Bay of St Andrews where the largest colony of King Penguins resides for breeding. The story continues. ~ Stephen

Xplore in So Georgia Island: 22 Nov. 2008

Macaroni day (and we are not talking about pasta...) ! This morning we left Grytviken, but not with the first light of the day. Indeed, our guests from the museum and from the supply boat JCR couldn't resist the excellent meal cooked for hours by Allan and John, and the night ended up quite late. We anchored in Cobblers Cove just in time for lunch, after a rocky roly trip. Then everybody (apart from Stephen - who was keeping an eye on his steel lady) left the boat to try to find the Macaroni penguin colony. After a nice walk across the hills, bumping into a few silent giant petrels on their nest, we started hearing the penguins. You couldn't see them .... but you could hear them ... and soon smell them! Finally - thousands of them were waiting for us, with their blond hair which gives them a very funny face: they look like surfers, but missing their surfboards! Another nice day in an amazing place! ~ Stephen Plat du jour Macaronis ( mais on n est pas en train de parler de pates...)! Ce matin on a quite Grytviken, mais pas a l aube. En effet, nos invites du musee et du bateau en charge du ravitaillement de l ile, le JCR, n ont pas pu resister au diner prepare durant des heures par Allan et John. Du coup la soiree s est finie un peu tard. Nous avons jete l ancre a Cobblers Cove, juste a temps pour le dejeuner apres une nave houleuse. Puis tout le monde a part Stephen qui est reste a bord pour garder un oeil sur son bateau, est parti a la recherche de la colonie de Macaronis. Apres une bonne marche, quelques rencontres impromptues avec des petrels geants dans leurs nids, on a commence a entendre les pinguins. On ne les voyait pas mais on les entendait puis rapidement on les a sentis! Des milliers de Macaronis nous attendaient, avec leurs meches blondes qui leur donnent une bouille marante, genre surfers, mais sans la planche... Bref, encore une super journee dans un cadre magique! ~ Audrey. First Mate Xplore

Xplore in So Georgia Island: 21 Nov. 2008

The weather gods have been kind. The lack of daily reports is totally due to the fact that everyone onboard has been awe-inspired by South Georgia: there is not another place like it in the world. And with the weather gods smiling kindly at us during these last four days, there hasn't been a moment to lose as each day we have been packing in shore walks, zodiac cruising, and wildlife experiences that just leave you speechless. The team ventured off for the last traverse of the famous Shackleton [Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton ] walk, which arrives into Stromness Bay where the disused whaling station lies. Shackleton's arrival there and first meeting with the whaling station manager was one of total disbelief as Shackleton and his men were unrecognisable due to the seal and penguin meat they were eating and the black grease that came from the cooking: looking more like the Yeti than human, they were slowly recognised. Other key highlights so far have been the massive King penguin colony at Salisbury Plains, the Macaroni penguin colony - with hundreds of thousands at the Welcome Islands - and the zodiac cruising around the bays of the disused stations of Prince Olav, including the last station to close, in 1967, at Leith Harbour. When it's calm and still you can close your eyes and imagine the turmoil and terror of those huge machines: tearing and destroying thousands and thousands of whales. Now situated at Gritviken station and the bay of King Edward point - which is the main British Antarctic Research station of the island - we all (including the crew) have had a day of R&R. Tonight the Curator and staff of the museum will join us onboard for some festive mingling (and a few drinks of course). More news coming as the adventure continues to unfold as we cruise on down to the SE corner of SG: I am sure no-one will be disappointed with Cape Disappointment ... Stephen