Tall Ships to round "the Horn" once again.

In the depths of a southern hemisphere winter in Ushuaia July 2009, I met with three Admirals who were visiting from Buenos Aires, Argentina and Santiago Chile. What could have brought these desk Admirals to the coldest ends of the South America continent at this time of the year ? Skiing ? Not likely, but a dream to celebrate 200 years of when Argentina and Chile first made moves to cut ties with Spain and establish themselves as new countries of the south, that was in 1810 and a lot has changed since then.

My meeting and dinner with them at the sleepy airoclub also inspired me, because their plan to celebrate the bi-centenary was to bring together one of the largest fleets of Tall Ships that still sail and to make a regatta by rounding of South America. From Rio de Janeiro Brazil, south with stops in Argentina and Uruguay around Cape Horn, then north along the Chilean coastal historic ports to Peru, Ecuador, through the Panama Canal to Venezuela, Dominican Republic, then a finale when the fleet reaches Veracruz in Mexico, 5 months of sailing and some of the most spectacular coast lines and historic sailing ports. (see http://www.velasudamerica2010.com)

Xplore will rendezvous with this currently confirmed fleet of 12 Grand "Ladies" of sail when they arrive at Staten Island off the coast of Tierra del Fuego, where we will commence the first 2 week period of sailing in company as an official support / photographic vessel to the fleet.

From Staten Island we will sail the eastern stretches of the Beagle Channel into Ushuaia, a brief port stop, then we will head for Cape Horn, a place that for all sailors around the globe, it is the Mecca that symbolizes achievement in sailing. (please see the included Cape Horn extract below)

After "Doubling the Horn" we head to the central and western reaches of the Beagle Channel and make sail with the fleet up the Straits of Magellan to the Chilean southern most city of Punta Arenas (Sandy Point) where we will end this first leg.

To sail in company will be amazing, to see this all in Tierra del Fuego is a once in a life time experience, interest is starting to mount as word gets around that this may be the last time to ever see a sailing Armada afloat in this part of the world.

Xplore has posted their entries with Argentina and Chile and has been officially accepted at sea and in port. We hope with strong interest, that we will continue to follow in company of the fleet the complete length of the west coast of South America and possibly through the Panama Canal to finish the regatta.

We ask that anyone that you know who maybe interested in joining Xplore for this experience to contact us, as group and longer passage discounts are possible.

So "ahhhhh me hearties, swab those decks and you'll get a bottle a rum"

Come sailing with us onboard Xplore and see those grand ladies under sail like you never will again.

Stephen Wilkins

Time to XPLORE!

In these times of economic uncertainty, there is still one currency you can count on. Experience.

‘And one investment that will never fail. Investing in yourself.

Especially now, We invite you to join our world of wonder in the south aboard Xplore. It’s a world not bound by stocks and bonds and interest rates. Where ‘climbing’ refers to treks across glacial ice; and ‘plummet’ refers to the crystal streams of Tierra del Fuego. Where the clamor of the stock market’s opening bell is dulled by the cacophony of 300,000 King Penguins on a South Georgia beach.

Dare to overcome obstacles others cannot even imagine; be inspired by natural beauty others only dream of; and fortify yourself for the changing world, with the strength, wisdom, perspective, and confidence that true adventure and exploration provides.

With the coming 2009/2010 season Xplore has built on our past successes to provide a rewarding selection of journeys and destinations for all tastes and levels.

Whether you long to experience the immeasurable wildlife of South Georgia, explore the icy wonders of Antarctica, or the grandeur of Tierra del Fuego, there has never been a better time to Xplore.

We have held our rates at last year’s level, and offer terrific incentives for returning guests and friends.

Please review the new 2009 / 2010 programme on line and let us know when you will come Xplore with us!

Stephen Wilkins and Nicolas Pichelin
Skipper and Expedition Leader
Xplore Expeditions

Stand by for the 2009-2010 program, to be posted soon!

Xplore Arrives in Buenos Aires

In the heat of the night

The day sets and the sun slips low over the flat landscape of Argentina, only hours after the moon - merely a crescent- also drops to the horizon.

But the heat from the day lingers on as we glide along through the mud brown waters of the River Plate (Rio de la Plata 'river of silver' -- I don't know where the silver is because every time I have come here it's always been mud ! ).

We have had a very smooth, and interesting trip north: it's been fast, considering the weather systems and the distance (1440 nautical miles) and through good luck and planning we were able to sit on the right side of the weather systems, giving us such good sailing conditions.

After being in Tierra del Fuego for some months and having to do so much motor sailing, it has been such a real pleasure to actually sail Xplore, 24/7. God, she is a great sailor: she laps up the miles and loves the wind.

During this voyage we have passed our 20,000 nautical mile mark since launching her in mid-2007, and some incredible miles we have done; and the places ... well even the photos can't tell the full story.

We will dock at Yacht Club Argentina, in the centre of Buenos Aires in the early hours of the morning, where I plan to toast Xplore and my crew, whom I have been so pleased and proud of this season. Audrey, as first mate, and Julia crew and second engineer, are a brilliant pair of girls -- anyone who thinks that big boats need to be sailed by big butch blokes is definitely wrong, it's all about technique: brains not brawn.

For all of us this trip north has been great, and to feel the warmth of the sun has been a real change. To be able to come up on deck with only one layer of thermals on and to lay in bed without a thick duvet wrapped around you and have to wait the 10 minutes before the cold chill turns into warmth has been a real change, but mind you it has had its drawbacks as well.

The change from cold to warm and then hot climates takes a lot to get used to and our bodies have reacted. Dehydration has brought days of headaches, swollen glands and we just can't seem to get enough water in us as we adjust to the temperature change. Even the thick skin on our hands (which your body builds up to fight off the cold freezing conditions in the South) is starting to show the tell-tale signs of dropping off. Yes in previous years I have felt like a snake as large thick layers of skin suddenly fall off your hands as the heat and the climate changes ... oh well that's life in the South.

Xplore will be based in Buenos Aires for five days before we take her to Uruguay where we can lift her out of the water for normal annual maintenance and painting. We have a few modifications planned to make her even better, but during the winter break we will still keep in touch with you all with details and plans of next season's exciting events and programs.

If you sailed with us this season, thank you for your company and busines! If you didn't, then I hope we see you on board soon!

Stephen Wilkins and all the Team of Xplore

Xplore Punta Arenas to Buenos Aires: 27 March 2009

Upside-down dolphin

Of course Xplore is a dolphin -- you try and convince all the hundreds of dolphins that have been swimming and playing with us for the last three hours that we're not !!

I'ts just that we are an upside-down one and a bit bigger than them. In their eyes we're just like all of their mates in the ocean: grey body, two fins, likes playing and bouncing off waves, never tires of exercise, and the faster you go the bigger the splooosh and bang when you go into the next wave. Definitely sounds like a dolphin to me!

We slipped out of the Straites of Magellan like someone had wiped our ass with baby oil: we got the weather and the currents right and did 198nm in the first 24 hours. Day 2 wasn't slow either: 182 miles which then turned into a glorious afternoon of sun, sun and calm seas (classic precursor to another southerly blow). We had been watching closely this new system and as we scraped our way around the southern corner of the Golfo San Jorge we had confirmation that change once again was on its way.

With a lowering cloud base the winds continued to move into the north ... there was nothing we could do but to be ready and make our sail changes down early, keep it easy -- it's going to be a very blowy three days.

With four reefs in, number 2 Yankee partially furled and the same for the stay sail, we came to meet this new howler in the early hours of the morning.

Xplore when she is tucked up for a blow she is great, "snug as a bug in a rug," I some times say (mind you those who are suffering - whom we call 'bucket heads' - don't quite see it in the same cuddly sort of way I do).

We tacked off the inside coast of the bay and headed out into never, neverland (South Atlantic). Within an hour we started seeing the loom of lights out at sea, and Jules and I talked about what type of boats they were. My guess was they were squid boats fishing off the shoals in the bay, they use strong flood lights to attract the squid and then use "jiggers" which are a type of fish hook with many barbs that catches them. We plowed on to the east, trying to bring on faster the break of dawn.

Dawn came and the sun squeezed through the myriad of broken wind blown clouds, fishing boats all long gone, a confused sea state still remained to build as were not even over 70 meters of depth. Sea birds are plenty and as this story started the dolphins came to play !

For the sailors out there, we were getting solid 34 to 38 knots of true wind, sailing at 34 apparent we are doing 7.7 knots through the water, a good run for a blowy day. We expect the winds to go further north, and then shift to the NNW and NW and continue to blow for the next two and a half days, with a course to steer of 034 degrees true we should make good ground, touch wood and fingers crossed, as all sailors do.

More news coming as we head north and finally feel some warmth for a change
Stephen

Punta Arenas to Buenos Aires: 24 March 2009

Blasted By Sand, Blasted Sand!

Punta Arenas is the most southern Chilean city in this country where the mixture of European cultures has evolved into a wonderful, eclectic mosaic of people, architecture and life style. When it's cold and windy here, its damn cold and windy. Winter and the changes of season see local people flee the area for some respite from the harsh conditions ... others, well they have just learned to live with it.

Myself, I enjoy the visits to Punta Arenas. The Chilean people are always happy to see a sailing yacht visit their port; they are always friendly and helpful, and over the years I have made some very special friends in this town.

After the excitement of the Avro Lincoln airplane crash, myself and the Xplore team cracked on with the work list in preparations for the trip north to the River Plate, Buenos Aires, and then over to Piriapolis in Uruguay where we lift Xplore out of the water for maintenance and painting.

There were some good jobs and some shit jobs that needed to be done ... After two years of travel we had found that the starboard head's plumbing pipes had built up with calcification and narrowed the pipes to the point where they just didn't flush any more !!! 'Damn Bugger' you could here us say, so we spent the best part of one day removing all 12 meters of pipes and then meticulously cleaned out every centimeter of the internal pipe walls. Yep you guessed it, we were ripping the old shit out of the pipes ... 'Nice job' hey? But done and working again we don't expect any more problems with that side, however the girls and me do know that we will have to do the port side before the boat comes out of the water ... who's going to get that job ?!

After three attempts to complete the port paper work and documentation, yesterday morning I finally was able to see all the government people to clear Chile and enable us to set sail for Buenos Aires in Argentina: Port Captain, for a new "Permissions to sail"; pay the port entry exit fees; customs department; and then the international police for the stamp in the passports.

The day had started calm, but our permanently running satellite weather system began showing a very large new low pressure formationn. In theory it was possible to leave, but by 1030am as I stepped back onboard with the Naval lieutenant who was completing the final documentation, even he spoke gravely about the sea conditions and wind strength in the Straites of Magellan.

I already knew in my bones that we weren't going anywhere, but being keen to set off can trap many a well wishing sailor. As we sat there in the cockpit and watched the water being torn from the sea around us, there was no one onboard who disagreed with my decision to sit, wait and be patient. We roared with laughter watching some of the juvenile birds trying to take off from the bay as the gusting winds twirled them around like fairly floss. One bird, after just taking off, was slammed back into the sea, and next we saw him shake his head as if to say to himself, 'Bloody hell what happened there ?!! No one told me about that!'

We sat and watched and waited till the billy boiled (yes I know, that's an Australian folk song) and we did; and nothing changed. It blew and blew: the sand from the surrounding hills covering Xplore with dirt and grit, as all day and into the night the winds peaked into the 60's.

I woke at 5am, at 7am and again at 8.45. Sleep, I didn't get much of, but by 9am I had formed the plan for the day. The winds had eased and the crew, keen to break the stalemate, jumped into the tasks to get us away. We knew the winds would be on the nose for the first part of the day but we had to get the tides right to pass through the First and Second narrows of the Straites of Magellan. To get them wrong means you can go backwards at up to 8 knots and have to start all over again. Finally clear to go , with a cheer we cast our lines.

More news to come as we undertake the 1450 nautical miles to Buenos Aires.

Stephen

Update on Found Plane

The authorities have said it is Argentinian, an Avro Lincoln Mk2, plane number B-019 which was flying from Rio Gallegos south, had 11 people onboard and went missing on the 22nd of March 1950.

Apparently the Chilean Air Force at the time did and aerial search over 6,500,000 Km of territory to find it but never did.

Check us out on CNN