Friday, May 29, 2009

Time to XPLORE!

In these times of economic uncertainty, there is still one currency you can count on. Experience. ‘And one investment that will never fail. Investing in yourself. Especially now, We invite you to join our world of wonder in the south aboard Xplore. It’s a world not bound by stocks and bonds and interest rates. Where ‘climbing’ refers to treks across glacial ice; and ‘plummet’ refers to the crystal streams of Tierra del Fuego. Where the clamor of the stock market’s opening bell is dulled by the cacophony of 300,000 King Penguins on a South Georgia beach. Dare to overcome obstacles others cannot even imagine; be inspired by natural beauty others only dream of; and fortify yourself for the changing world, with the strength, wisdom, perspective, and confidence that true adventure and exploration provides. With the coming 2009/2010 season Xplore has built on our past successes to provide a rewarding selection of journeys and destinations for all tastes and levels. Whether you long to experience the immeasurable wildlife of South Georgia, explore the icy wonders of Antarctica, or the grandeur of Tierra del Fuego, there has never been a better time to Xplore. We have held our rates at last year’s level, and offer terrific incentives for returning guests and friends. Please review the new 2009 / 2010 programme on line and let us know when you will come Xplore with us! Stephen Wilkins and Nicolas Pichelin Skipper and Expedition Leader Xplore Expeditions

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Xplore Arrives in Buenos Aires

In the heat of the night The day sets and the sun slips low over the flat landscape of Argentina, only hours after the moon - merely a crescent- also drops to the horizon. But the heat from the day lingers on as we glide along through the mud brown waters of the River Plate (Rio de la Plata 'river of silver' -- I don't know where the silver is because every time I have come here it's always been mud ! ). We have had a very smooth, and interesting trip north: it's been fast, considering the weather systems and the distance (1440 nautical miles) and through good luck and planning we were able to sit on the right side of the weather systems, giving us such good sailing conditions. After being in Tierra del Fuego for some months and having to do so much motor sailing, it has been such a real pleasure to actually sail Xplore, 24/7. God, she is a great sailor: she laps up the miles and loves the wind. During this voyage we have passed our 20,000 nautical mile mark since launching her in mid-2007, and some incredible miles we have done; and the places ... well even the photos can't tell the full story. We will dock at Yacht Club Argentina, in the centre of Buenos Aires in the early hours of the morning, where I plan to toast Xplore and my crew, whom I have been so pleased and proud of this season. Audrey, as first mate, and Julia crew and second engineer, are a brilliant pair of girls -- anyone who thinks that big boats need to be sailed by big butch blokes is definitely wrong, it's all about technique: brains not brawn. For all of us this trip north has been great, and to feel the warmth of the sun has been a real change. To be able to come up on deck with only one layer of thermals on and to lay in bed without a thick duvet wrapped around you and have to wait the 10 minutes before the cold chill turns into warmth has been a real change, but mind you it has had its drawbacks as well. The change from cold to warm and then hot climates takes a lot to get used to and our bodies have reacted. Dehydration has brought days of headaches, swollen glands and we just can't seem to get enough water in us as we adjust to the temperature change. Even the thick skin on our hands (which your body builds up to fight off the cold freezing conditions in the South) is starting to show the tell-tale signs of dropping off. Yes in previous years I have felt like a snake as large thick layers of skin suddenly fall off your hands as the heat and the climate changes ... oh well that's life in the South. Xplore will be based in Buenos Aires for five days before we take her to Uruguay where we can lift her out of the water for normal annual maintenance and painting. We have a few modifications planned to make her even better, but during the winter break we will still keep in touch with you all with details and plans of next season's exciting events and programs. If you sailed with us this season, thank you for your company and busines! If you didn't, then I hope we see you on board soon! Stephen Wilkins and all the Team of Xplore

Friday, March 27, 2009

Xplore Punta Arenas to Buenos Aires: 27 March 2009

Upside-down dolphin Of course Xplore is a dolphin -- you try and convince all the hundreds of dolphins that have been swimming and playing with us for the last three hours that we're not !! I'ts just that we are an upside-down one and a bit bigger than them. In their eyes we're just like all of their mates in the ocean: grey body, two fins, likes playing and bouncing off waves, never tires of exercise, and the faster you go the bigger the splooosh and bang when you go into the next wave. Definitely sounds like a dolphin to me! We slipped out of the Straites of Magellan like someone had wiped our ass with baby oil: we got the weather and the currents right and did 198nm in the first 24 hours. Day 2 wasn't slow either: 182 miles which then turned into a glorious afternoon of sun, sun and calm seas (classic precursor to another southerly blow). We had been watching closely this new system and as we scraped our way around the southern corner of the Golfo San Jorge we had confirmation that change once again was on its way. With a lowering cloud base the winds continued to move into the north ... there was nothing we could do but to be ready and make our sail changes down early, keep it easy -- it's going to be a very blowy three days. With four reefs in, number 2 Yankee partially furled and the same for the stay sail, we came to meet this new howler in the early hours of the morning. Xplore when she is tucked up for a blow she is great, "snug as a bug in a rug," I some times say (mind you those who are suffering - whom we call 'bucket heads' - don't quite see it in the same cuddly sort of way I do). We tacked off the inside coast of the bay and headed out into never, neverland (South Atlantic). Within an hour we started seeing the loom of lights out at sea, and Jules and I talked about what type of boats they were. My guess was they were squid boats fishing off the shoals in the bay, they use strong flood lights to attract the squid and then use "jiggers" which are a type of fish hook with many barbs that catches them. We plowed on to the east, trying to bring on faster the break of dawn. Dawn came and the sun squeezed through the myriad of broken wind blown clouds, fishing boats all long gone, a confused sea state still remained to build as were not even over 70 meters of depth. Sea birds are plenty and as this story started the dolphins came to play ! For the sailors out there, we were getting solid 34 to 38 knots of true wind, sailing at 34 apparent we are doing 7.7 knots through the water, a good run for a blowy day. We expect the winds to go further north, and then shift to the NNW and NW and continue to blow for the next two and a half days, with a course to steer of 034 degrees true we should make good ground, touch wood and fingers crossed, as all sailors do. More news coming as we head north and finally feel some warmth for a change Stephen

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Punta Arenas to Buenos Aires: 24 March 2009

Blasted By Sand, Blasted Sand! Punta Arenas is the most southern Chilean city in this country where the mixture of European cultures has evolved into a wonderful, eclectic mosaic of people, architecture and life style. When it's cold and windy here, its damn cold and windy. Winter and the changes of season see local people flee the area for some respite from the harsh conditions ... others, well they have just learned to live with it. Myself, I enjoy the visits to Punta Arenas. The Chilean people are always happy to see a sailing yacht visit their port; they are always friendly and helpful, and over the years I have made some very special friends in this town. After the excitement of the Avro Lincoln airplane crash, myself and the Xplore team cracked on with the work list in preparations for the trip north to the River Plate, Buenos Aires, and then over to Piriapolis in Uruguay where we lift Xplore out of the water for maintenance and painting. There were some good jobs and some shit jobs that needed to be done ... After two years of travel we had found that the starboard head's plumbing pipes had built up with calcification and narrowed the pipes to the point where they just didn't flush any more !!! 'Damn Bugger' you could here us say, so we spent the best part of one day removing all 12 meters of pipes and then meticulously cleaned out every centimeter of the internal pipe walls. Yep you guessed it, we were ripping the old shit out of the pipes ... 'Nice job' hey? But done and working again we don't expect any more problems with that side, however the girls and me do know that we will have to do the port side before the boat comes out of the water ... who's going to get that job ?! After three attempts to complete the port paper work and documentation, yesterday morning I finally was able to see all the government people to clear Chile and enable us to set sail for Buenos Aires in Argentina: Port Captain, for a new "Permissions to sail"; pay the port entry exit fees; customs department; and then the international police for the stamp in the passports. The day had started calm, but our permanently running satellite weather system began showing a very large new low pressure formationn. In theory it was possible to leave, but by 1030am as I stepped back onboard with the Naval lieutenant who was completing the final documentation, even he spoke gravely about the sea conditions and wind strength in the Straites of Magellan. I already knew in my bones that we weren't going anywhere, but being keen to set off can trap many a well wishing sailor. As we sat there in the cockpit and watched the water being torn from the sea around us, there was no one onboard who disagreed with my decision to sit, wait and be patient. We roared with laughter watching some of the juvenile birds trying to take off from the bay as the gusting winds twirled them around like fairly floss. One bird, after just taking off, was slammed back into the sea, and next we saw him shake his head as if to say to himself, 'Bloody hell what happened there ?!! No one told me about that!' We sat and watched and waited till the billy boiled (yes I know, that's an Australian folk song) and we did; and nothing changed. It blew and blew: the sand from the surrounding hills covering Xplore with dirt and grit, as all day and into the night the winds peaked into the 60's. I woke at 5am, at 7am and again at 8.45. Sleep, I didn't get much of, but by 9am I had formed the plan for the day. The winds had eased and the crew, keen to break the stalemate, jumped into the tasks to get us away. We knew the winds would be on the nose for the first part of the day but we had to get the tides right to pass through the First and Second narrows of the Straites of Magellan. To get them wrong means you can go backwards at up to 8 knots and have to start all over again. Finally clear to go , with a cheer we cast our lines. More news to come as we undertake the 1450 nautical miles to Buenos Aires. Stephen

Friday, March 20, 2009

Update on Found Plane

The authorities have said it is Argentinian, an Avro Lincoln Mk2, plane number B-019 which was flying from Rio Gallegos south, had 11 people onboard and went missing on the 22nd of March 1950.
Apparently the Chilean Air Force at the time did and aerial search over 6,500,000 Km of territory to find it but never did. Check us out on CNN

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Lost Souls in the Mountains

The glacial ice creaks and groans, the stout windblown trees rustle from the incessant gales that sweep the area, and at the base of the glacier lie the souls of adventurers who flew in their airplane with a dream of success in Antarctica.

We have not been able to report to you all about the discovery that the team on Xplore made during this last expedition in the remote fiords of Tierra del Fuego (TDF) until now. We were exploring the bays and glacial basins off the arms of Seno Almirantazgo when one of the shore party teams’ VHF radio started calling back to the yacht with a squealed excitement.

Rodrigo had gone further up the glacial valley than anyone else and what he found after crossing the glacial moraine would open a wave of intrigue about what he had uncovered.

Lying at the base of the glacier, partially covered with ice and moraine soil were the remains of a large aircraft that had smashed itself to pieces as it had flown straight into the mountains.

Rodrigo's first reactions were a mixture of excitement and emotion as he relayed to the shore teams and Xplore what he was looking at. Touching and turning over pieces in his hands, the size of the parts lying there could not be taken lightly. The huge landing wheel couldn't even be lifted. The sections of the twin tail planes showed telltale signs of the type of craft, and the seat belt in his hand was rusted and of a design from many years ago. The huge propellers lay there, still with their yellow tips, bent and twisted. But the discovery of a parachute that he started to tug on, as it was partially buried, stopped him short in his tracks as he realized that there may be something on the other end of it, and the shards of bones lying mixed within the soil and ice could be …?

Rodrigo returned to Xplore with a few items and a lot of photos, his heartbeat was still erratic as the whelm of ideas and emotions were shared within the whole team. Where did it come from, what nationality, where was it going? Who was onboard?

Just over 24 hours ago, Xplore docked at the fishermen's dock here in the Straits of Magellan, Punta Arenas (Sandy Point). Waiting on the dock were five men from the Civil Aviation, Army and Air Force, who looked very serious. They waited until we had Xplore tied up and then the questions started to roll, on and on they probed Rodrigo about the events and discovery.

Late last night we received news that some possible answers were coming to light. During the Second World War and into the 1950's the Chilean and Argentinean Air Forces had used Avro Lancaster aircraft in the area, and we had evidence of Spanish markings on the plane’s fuselage. These planes normally flew in military operations with eight crew and had the capability to carry 15 passengers/troops.

Even though there had been no listed missing aircraft in this part of TDF, the authorities had received news that in the 50's two Lancaster aircraft had departed from Argentina en route to Antarctica. With extreme weather along the way, both had turned and headed to Punta Arenas to escape the conditions. Only one landed.

Is the twisted wreckage that we have found the other lost plane?

The investigation continues

~ Stephen