Friday, July 1, 2011

Morning has broken

There are times in ones life that you will always remember, good ones, sad ones and bad ones.

But today, the dawn light is just creeping over the eastern horizon as we pass Ninth Island close on the northern coast of Tasmania, the seas are flat, the winds are calm, the stars are still shining brightly as they have all night showing us the final way home to my country and home.

We all could not have had a more enjoyable and relaxing "Second Half" to the crossing from New Zealand, the first 675 nautical miles were a tad on the demanding side and a reminder of what heavy weather sailing is all about.

The second half has been a joy, the type of ocean travel that you dream about, and which reminds us why we come out into the seas to visit distant lands, over come adversities and test ourselves, just for these delicious magical moments.

We have 26 nautical miles to travel until we enter the river system of the Tamar, this leads to Launceston, but more importantly to Beauty Point, my loved home and place where I have some of my best friends.

We left Punta Arenas in Chile on the 16th of April and we arrive here on the 2nd of July, just over 9,200 nautical miles, and once again in true Xplore style these miles have been filled with adventure and challenges.

As Skipper I have tried to always write about where we have been going, whats been happening so that readers of these blogs can briefly transport themselves into our very different world in the extreme and remote parts of the world that can only be visited by sea.

My greatest thanks though, and thanks that can never be said enough goes to my crew, Audrey first mate, Julie and all the other fine people who have helped me sail Xplore in such a professional manner which has safely delivered everyone to their dreams and back again.

This winter Xplore will remain in Tasmania for a well earnt break and some normal maintenance, and after that only god knows ?

Stephen Wilkins A proud skipper, and a happy Australian

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Great Balls of Fire

Sailing into electrical storms at night is something that land lubbers will never understand, and quite understandably, and you would have to ask the question of reason and sanity about why silly old sailors would do such a thing ?

Wellllllll, you see there are weather systems that you want to be on the right side of and there's the other side that just isn't going in the right direction, so you have to pick one or the other, sounds quite simple.

So last night we picked the right side of the system, but there is a down side to that, lightning, thunder, very strong gusty winds and heavy rain ! hmm you ask, doesn't sound very smart at all.

Every weather system is fed by external and upper atmosphere air masses which have different characteristics, and some times these don't mix that well or get along nicely, a bit like putting some guys from the Hells Angels in with a bunch of gay ballet dancers, you just know that there is going to be a fight.

The fight didn't last that long, and I am not sure who won, but it was spectacular. There we were sailing along and I was watching the winds start to creep back from the North, I just said to Jane that we would put the last (4th) reef in as it was feeling more unsettled and there was another, even darker cloud mass coming, and as we went to do this, ga boom !

Within seconds the winds went from mid 20's into the 30's and then 40's, we banged on the auto pilot buttons for 50 degrees course change as I ran back to the helm to tak it manually, Jane was dumping the main sheet and the winds peaked, and the torrential rain came bucketing down, we had to get off the wind to ease the pressure.

All hands on deck, as Audrey felt the sudden change from her bunk, tearing away down wind the girls fought with the main and brought it down and under control.

The lightening bolts and thunderous booms from the electrical storm directly above us was incredible, it was all happening very fast and there wasn't even a moment to shut the computer systems down, to do up your jacket or to even consider whether we would be hit by the lightening.

The crack of the whip noises, and the great balls of fire as the white fists from heaven came sparkling down left everyone awe struck and totally sodden with rain and perspiration, job done, boat fine, everyone safe.

Postion 37 03 S 167 42 E speed 7.2 knots course 242 true 1003nm to the Tamar River and Tasmania

Monday, June 20, 2011

Bug City

Your skin crawls with tingling shudders. You scratch so hard that the pain is nearly enjoyable. The nights are so long because sleep never comes, only the insects that silently drill holes into your skin. In day light the horror of the nights animal feasting becomes apparent. The lumps, welds and scars cover any, and every part of your body. Tucking into bed is no longer a pleasure, just the start of yet another execution session.

New Zealand, and its stunning Bay of Islands is a delightful place. One of the most important part of that delight is the incredibly warm, friendly and helpful people.

We have now spent a week in the harbor town of Opua, and the weather gods have tugged at our mooring lines stronger today, just to remind us of our plan and dream to finally sail Xplore into Beauty Point there in Tasmania for winter.

We leave the Bay of Islands and Bug City with smooth seas and a sunny sky, still scratching from the onslaught from the sand flies that they call "Midges"

Stephen

Monday, June 13, 2011

Thered be sheep in them hills

The feelings of making land fall to any sailor are always very strong, the longer the voyage the stronger the feelings.

We left Punta Arenas Chile on the 16th of April and we are now just about to enter the port of Opua in the Bay of Islands New Zealand, it will be the 14th of June, a smidge under two months and 7,500 nautrical miles later.

The land of the Long White Cloud (New Zealand) is also reknowned for their sheep, millions of them, more sheep than the total population !

Many of the Xplore team have been to these shores before, but for each and everyone of us this marks end of the Pacific crossing. Many of the team will continue through to Tasmania, but some will depart here in New Zealand.

For most people the thought of traveling such as distance by sea is far too daunting, and the thought of being together on one relatively small boat with 8 people is inconceivable. But those who have sailed long ocean miles will always tell you that the days slip by much faster than you think, and that there is always something to do, to look at and to think about.

More news to come as we wash the salt from our clothes, put on some street gear and taste the foods and beverages of the Long White Cloud.

Stephen

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Sweet Sister Sue, I fell in love today

Oh dear sister Sue, what can I tell you, I dont know how it happened but I fell in love today.

She's such an incredible woman, with curves and hips that send me quite wild, she moves so sweet and being with her everyone turns their eyes to stare at our grace.

I feel so good being by her side, I feel like a man when she is tucked under my arm.

She purr's and sings in such a sweet way, I now know how a woman can be when she's content and at ease with me.

For years I have looked for this woman, and for so long I didnt realise that she was there right next to me.

As friends in the past we have taken great paths, rough and extreme, much of the world that we have seen.

But today she has opened my eyes, and let me be the person that I have always wanted to be, the smile that rises on my face is the proof that true love is really in place.

Stephen and Xplore South Pacific 12 knots true wind, 38 apparent, 8.2 knots boat speed, 1/2 meter smooth swell

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

High There

The South Pacific Ocean, like all of the major ocean have a dominant "High" pressure cell located within these areas, they give regular and constant winds in a generally set direction which are call "Trade Winds"

Sailing the Trades, as they are often fondly called, means for relaxing, and relatively easy sailing (as long as you are going with them and not against them)

And like all good things in life, nothing lasts or stays forever, and that also can be said about the Trades.

We have again for the last 30 hours had wonderful sailing, power broad reaching with the asymetrical spinnaker up logging a constant 8.5 to 10 knots. Everyone has beem helming (steering the boat) and the grins on faces as the speed climbs over 10 knots is always infectious.

BUT, it stopped !! Bugger, Dam, put some more money in the wind slot machine! Please

Hmm, cant do much about that I suppose, so we have to continue at a slower pace under engine and what ever sails will stay up and not flap and flog themselfs to bits.

The South pacific High is a littler bit similar to the North Atlantic high, in that it is a split system, it starts in the west and pushes into the east, as it increases in size it dominates the whole area untill it gets pushed further to the east, then weakens as the next new high pressure cell forms again out in the west. Between these two High's is often a dividing low presure cell to keep it all mixing up, and making sure that sailors dont relax for too long.

We now have only 1,163 nautical miles untill we get to our most western waypoint, then we will head down towards New Zealand which is another 1,100 miles.

So, see you soon, well that depends on the Trades ?

Stephen

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Xplore Medivac Up Date, Pitcairn to Gambier Island

There is deep sadness on board Xplore at the present time as we continue through to Gambier Island, I have attached 3 emails to the Mayor of Pitcairn and officials of what has transpired in the last nine hours.

Stephen Wilkins

I am so sad to have to inform all concerned with the Medivac of Terry Young that at 1638 local Pitcairn time on the 21st of May that he passed away whilst on board Xplore Expeditions on route to the Gambier islands Mangareva.

Melva Evans the paramedic nurse and all of the crew on board Xplore work hard for 35 minutes to try to resusitate Terry but were not able to.

During this time we sort additional medical information and advice to assist us from Pitcairn doctor Peter Cardon .

We will continue through to Gambier island with an expected ETA of the morning of the 22nd of May.

Stephen Wilkins Xplore Expeditions

Dear Stephen,

I understand from Dr Peter that Terry has passed away.

I wish to pass onto you and your crew my deepest gratitude for what you have done and what you continue to do for us. I didnt expect this to happen but I know you did all you can. We're all grieving the loss and i know you're grieving with us too. Could you please pass this message on to everyone on board and know that even in times of grief one can find love and peace. I know this event will affect you all for the rest of you lives, but know this, that we have reserved in all of our hearts a special place for all of you guys.

Thank you guys and gals...one and all

Could you also pass on to Melva the following message...."You did good sis...proud of you girl! I know you're feeling devastated right now but know this...."Naked I come from my mothers womb, And naked shall I return there The Lord gave, and the Lord has taken away, Blessed be the name of the Lord" Job 1:21 Hang in there and we'll see you soon.

Mike Warren Mayor of Pitcairn

Dear Mike, we all here on Xplore have been touched in a very special way with this whole experience, with Terry, Pitcairn and life.

You are very true with what you wrote, that this is an experience which has and will touch all of our lifes for ever.

Personally I feel sadness and grief that I wasnt able to get to know Terry better than what I was able to in this very short time, we did talk whilst he was with us and I felt that there was a very warm and kind man there, maybe one day you all there in the island will help us to understand more about what and who that man really was.

The whole team on board thank you for your kind words, and we all know that there is now a connection with Pitcairn which no one ever can take away from us all.

None of us ever, for even one moment considered any other option than what we chose and that is to help our brothers in need, for that we stand proud as humans with empathy and love in our hearts.

Please do pass this one with our deapest sympathies to all of the family and such kind folk there at Pitcairn.

Stephen Wilkins, Audrey, George, Julie, Mike, Bob, Lyn, Catalina and Melva